Build Introduction:

Below is an outline guide for building the frame and a full build of a Flipmode and Juicemode. There is a mind blending array of different components out there, and before you buy and mount them in a frame it’s not always clear if they will work well together or fit the frame well, often resulting in a frustrating experience with this hobby. One of the key goals of Supafly is to help anyone get an amazing flying build and enjoy FPV at it’s best the same as any pro out there with years of experience. For this reason Supafly is now stocking the key components alongside the frames as well as a fully tuned and set up flight controller. This helps give you peace of mind to ensure it works well together alongside the tuning to produce a solid, reliable and high performance build – one we fly ourselves. There may be cheaper components out there or ready built efforts, but if you want a legit FPV freestyle build which is tough and flies awesome – try Supafly…

Tools and Extras:

  • 2mm allen key/hex driver
  • Wire cutters
  • Soldering Iron and solder
  • M3 and M5 wrench / spanner
  • Black electrical tape for taping motor wires around arms

Frame assembly – Flipmode and Juicemode

    • Assemble base plate ‘sandwich’ of top plate, arms then locking plate
    • Use the 14mm screws and lock nut on outer holes, and the 25mm screw on the inner stack holes. (Note there are also other length screws included for different stacks if you need).
    • Order from top to bottom is: top plate, arms then locking plate
    • Hand tighten the lock nuts and press nuts into place – press nuts with serrated edge facing down
    • The drive home the press nuts by turning the screw and they will cinch into their seated position
    • Now tighten the outer lock nuts and you will end up with a solid and stiff assembly for the next stage

Install standoffs

    • On the Flipmode use the 6/8mm button head screws to attach the 20mm standoffs to the base plate
    • On the Juicemode the standoffs are 30mm (scroll image to right)

 

 

Flight Controller / ESC Stack:

    • Can use other 30x30 FC and ESC on arms if desired

 

 

 

ESC and Motor mounting:

  • Mount motors with 6mm screws direct or 8mm screws and washers if using arm guards.
  • Titanium screws available to save weight
  • Put rubber grommet on XT60/power cable, then solder to ESC power pads
  • Solder capacitor with 18 awg wire to lipo power pads
  • Place nylon washer supplied on press nut then mount 4in1 ESC as shown
  • Solder motor wires to ESC pads

FPV Camera mounting:

 

  • Foxeer Predator?v4
  • Frame takes standard 28mm wide cameras (or mini cameras with bracket)
  • Take camera plates and mount Predator camera (middle and top slot)
  • With Flipmode, can install standoffs and camera on one side, then slide onto lower plate slots, and assemble other side (using 6/8mm frame screws provided)

Aikon Stack Flight controller wiring:

 

  • FPV camera – Use 9cm of wire from Predator cables and connect to flight controller: Black Ground-ground, Red-Cam+, Yellow Video-video, White-Cam Control. Bridge power to use ‘Bat’. (ignore image is using 5v – Bat is better).
  • XM+ receiver: Use 5cm servo cable wire for : Black-Ground, Red-5v, White-RX1
  • Tramp VTX-FC: Use 7cm of wire: Yellow Video-Video, Red-Bat+, Black-G(round), Tramp T Telemetry-TX1. Can remove Tramp Audio. Keep but cover 5v and extra ground in case it is needed to power FPV cam in case of issues.

Mount flight controller into frame

  • Use 4mm nylon spacer above ESC then connect 4in1 esc and mount flight controller
  • Orientation IMPORTANT – check images – FC should have ESC connector at rear and USB socket under the board
  • Connect FPV camera and Tramp VTX
  • Insert Tramp antenna SMA and tighten onto TPU with pliers on each side
  • Recommend electrical tape on XM+ and Tramp for isolation
  • Bind receiver
  • Zip tie XM+/Tramp stack using provided zip tie slots

 

 

Video Transmitter and Radio Receiver:

Recommended Video Antenna:

Recommended Receiver:

  • Frsky XM+
  • Frsky R-XSR
  • Crossfire Nano

 

Radio Antenna Mounting

  • Zip tie is classic robust FPV method – doesnt break like silly straws:
  • Place zip tie included in kits around arm as shown, and feed antenna through clamping it on arm
  • Note zip tie clasp should be positioned at bottom rear of arm should pull outwards
  • Cut tie to length and slide included 2mm heatshrink over tie and antenna
  • Use heat gun/lighter to shrink heat shrink
  • Add some extra electrical tape to secure

Prepare Top Plate

  • Mount foam pad onto top plate (I know-the sticky paper is annoying to remove, keep picking…)
  • Mount lipo straps onto top plate and front camera cage on Flipmode

Finishing Up…

  • Use countersunk screws to mount top plate
  • Slot in rubber grommet for power lead
  • Mount HD Camera Mounts
  • Mount Lollipop Video antenna

 

Bando Kit… 

  • Add extra protection / HD cam mounts for a bulletproof build
  • Take the option of titanium motor screws to reduce weight whilst adding protection with arm / motor guards
  • Add on front bumpers to protect carbon edges from impact with hard surfaces
  • Available in shop or on frame product page

 

Recommended Motors (suppliers listed below):

    • Premium:
    • T Motor F40 / F60 Pro / Blackbird
    • Mid-range
    • iflight Xing 2306 / 2207
    • Budget
    • Xing-E / Emax ECO 2306 / 2207 2400kv

 

Recommended Lipo :

  • Acehe 1500
  • Tattu R Line 1800
  • GNB 1500
  • RDQ 1500
  • Infinity RS 1500

Demonstration of flight performance of Juicemode and Flipmode

  • Highest possible Betaflight performance with Supafly RPM tuning
  • Totally locked in control – full confidence
  • No propwash
  • Smooth video
  • Trouble-free Supafly ride

Recommended Lipo Chargers:

  • SkyRC iMax B6
  • Hobbyking Turnigy Reaktor range
  • ISDT Q6
  • SkyRC Q200
  • iCharger X6

Need help setting up the radio, flashing ESC etc? Check these great resources which have tutorials on all subjects…